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Tatting in resin final

Tatting in resin, final. Hello everyone! I hope you weren’t scared by my long, long, long story of how I do tatting in resin. Because in fact, this process is not so complicated and long. You will need only attention and accuracy for successful execution. And of course, I would really like to see more of your feedback and comments, please.

Tatting in resin final
Tatting in resin, final

So, the last time we stopped at the second fill. I usually leave molds with resin for 2 days. Because during this time, the resin completely hardens.

I release frozen products from molds. Unfortunately, not all molds have openings. Therefore, I have to do it myself.

I use a small hand drill and drills with a diameter of 2 mm.

When drilling holes, you must place the product on a flat surface. But be sure to lay a cloth so that your resin does not get scratched. You do not want to spoil this beauty! Yes?

Now that all the products have holes,

I insert paper clips into these holes.

After all, now the time has come to varnish finished products. And it’s very convenient for me to hold the products by a paper clip. I rotate the frozen resin in different directions and apply the protective varnish evenly. Very easy!

Then I hang up the varnished items to dry. By the way, I use my cake molds and long knitting needles. And I MANDATORY hide my products from the sun (I cover it with a cloth again).

I strictly adhere to the instructions of the varnish manufacturer. Therefore, I repeat the process in 2-3 hours. That is, I varnish the product twice!

Look what happens to the resin, which I did not hide from the sun during the work and did not varnish.

Finally, the finishing touch remained! I attach the necessary metal fittings.

And finally, “cherry on the cake”! This is my branded packaging. Next time I will talk about this in detail.

Hooray! I did it! My long story “Tatting in the resin” is over. Ask questions in the comments, subscribe to my blog to be in the know!

As usual, I invite you to check out my store: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/

And of course, welcome to my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_fWxN3THBc&list=UU3dn4_9pp7tIKA2k564wLBQ

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Tatting in resin part 5

Tatting in resin part 5. Hello everyone! Without a long introduction, I continue the story of how I do tatting in resin.

So, our mixture of resin and hardener is ready. We made a transparent, homogeneous substance.

Now I fill the molds with resin using a syringe.

At the very beginning of the work, I calculated the required volume of resin and divided it by 2. Do you remember? Because I fill the molds only to half. I tried to fill completely, but got a sad result. In this case, the lace is deformed and bent in resin.

Then I cover the filled forms with a plastic container. I use forms after cakes, but you may find something else.

And I cover a plastic container with a piece of cloth. I hide tar from the sun, so as not to get terrible yellowed products.

Now I will leave the resin for about 2 hours. I observe the degree of cure of the resin, because this is a very important point. You should get a soft, sticky surface. But the resin does not have to be very liquid. Because then the pieces of lace are deformed. And we will get a sad result. By the way, I tat in advance pieces of tatting .

Then I put pieces of lace and beads in the molds. I do this with tweezers. After all, it turns out neater and more convenient.

After that, I cover the molds with a container and a cloth. I can do other things now! Typically, the resin solidifies completely after 20-24 hours. After that I continue the tatting process in resin.

Tatting in resin part 5. Second fill

So, the next day I repeat the pouring process. That is, I mix the resin and fill the second half of the molds.

I get 2-3 air bubbles in the fill sometimes. And then I easily remove the bubbles with a wooden stick.

And then I put the molds under the container and the fabric again for 20-24 hours.

I hope you are not very tired of reading such a long text. “Tatting in resin part 5” turned out to be the penultimate post about my experience. But now I suggest you have fun and relax. Have a nice weekend! I will finish the topic “tatting in resin” next time necessarily. Thanks for the support and attention to my blog.
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Tatting in resin part 4

Tatting in resin, part 4.

Hello everyone! First, I want to thank everyone for the great reviews and comments about my blog. Your kind words are very important to me. I am inspired! But soon my topic of tatting in resin will end. What will I write? Again I ask you, dear readers. What do you want to know about? Are there topics that are interesting and important to you? Maybe browsing my store will tell you ideas for my new posts? https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/

Tatting in resin part 4
Tatting in resin part 4

So, today is the article “Tatting in resin, part 4”. You read carefully my previous posts on this subject, I hope. 🙂 I talked about tools, molds, threads. Thus, gradually we came to the most important moment ( ta-daaaa!). I am sure my advice will help you make the perfect transparent tatting in resin! After all, now I will show how I work with resin.

I start work with mathematical calculations. (Ha ha! That sounds very clever, right?)

Do you remember my table for determining the volume of molds? I talked about this before. Thus, I calculate how much resin and hardener I need. Then I divide the result by 2. This is an important point! Because I do the fill in two steps. It took me a few experiments to come to this conclusion.

Then I pour the resin into a transparent plastic cup. I carefully monitor the volume (everything is exactly according to the calculations!).

Oh God, what terrible hands I have! No, these are just medical gloves! 🙂

Do you see what a cloudy resin from many-many-many bubbles?

Resin manufacturer’s instructions

I do not know which resin you are using. Therefore, I ask you to pay attention to the manufacturer’s instructions. The instructions for my epoxy indicate: put the container with the resin in hot water to completely dissolve the air bubbles. You may not see such an item in your instructions, but try it! This will be your personal experiment.

I take a cup and a kettle of hot water.

And voila, I got the perfect result in 10 minutes!

In the meantime, I prepared the molds for pouring. I already told you the best way to store forms. Therefore, I do not need to wash molds every time. If I notice a speck of dust or a small speck, I wipe the mold with a cotton swab. Because everything must be perfectly clean!

The next step, I pour the hardener into the resin (do not forget about the accuracy)!

After that I have to mix the composition thoroughly.

Rules when mixing the resin.

I came up with these rules for myself, but you can use them, of course.

First, I mix the resin and the hardener is NOT FAST. Because with a high mixing speed, I get sooooo many bubbles (alas). Secondly, I DO NOT REMOVE the stick from the solution until mixing is complete. Because it leads to the formation of large air bubbles every time you raise and lower the stick.

Thirdly, I use TRANSPARENT cup to see the state of mixed. Fourth, I leave the solution alone after stirring for 3-5 minutes, so that the small bubbles disappear.

Fifth, I pour the settled mixture into a clean plastic cup MANDATORY!

Oh, how many words I wrote today! I will not abuse your patience, so I will end my story about the filling process in the next post.
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Tatting in resin part 3

Tatting in resin, part 3.

Hello everyone!

I am got a lot of chagrin and disappointment, alas …My previous post gained few views and comments. Are you not interested? In this case, my efforts make no sense. Why am I wasting time and effort describing my experience with tatting resin? I know how to make tatting in resin. 🙁 I thought you would be interested in this topic. Because after starting publications on this topic I received a lot of views, reviews and suggestions from visitors to my blog. Sorry, but I have to appeal to all readers again. Subscribe to my blog and leave comments, please. Of course, only if you are interested! 🙂 Because without feedback my blog does not make sense. Sorry for the emotions …

So, “Tatting in Resin, Part 3”. Today I will talk about the threads that I use.

In previous posts, I wrote how difficult the thread selection process was. Because the thickness of the thread is very important for the size of the finished sample tatting. I determined that the most suitable threads are thickness # 50 (for my projects, of course).

I chose two types of thread: cotton and polyester.


Most I like to weave thin cotton threads. These threads are made straight, tightly twisted. I tat very small pieces, therefore quite difficult to hide the end threads. But it is enough to make a strong knot and shortly cut the end treads. I made sure, that in this case the knot does not untie and tatted piece not deteriorate. By the way, I noticed an interesting effect! I get a brighter shade of thread when I put a piece of tatting in resin.

Tatting in resin

But I want to say that polyester threads are also good. The more that I found surprisingly gentle pastel shades of different colors. Do you see how these threads glisten in resin?

I am sure you will like these pastel colors.

And I was convinced, that the shade of threads is brighter in the resin. I think this is a consequence of the refraction of rays in a transparent resin. But I will not bore you with the study of physics and optics!

I checked, for polyester yarns it’s not enough to knit and trim the end. I had to slightly melt the ends of the thread with fire. Yes, it works! But I got a little problem. You must be very careful with a white thread. 🙂 Because with arson the themes darken.

I got unpleasant yellow spots on white threads. And oh horror! They spread in the resin, like ink stains. I was forced to throw it away.

In any case, now I try to be careful when working with new threads! First I make trial samples. And of course, I “try on” each woven piece into molds.

Oh, I do not want to tell how many times I changed the pattern for “Rose Garden Alphabet”! But the final result was suitable!

You can buy this pattern and make a small personalized keychain. https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/product/rose-garden-alphabet-tatting-pattern/ I remind : you can buy any pattern in my store with a 10% discount until December 15th. Coupon Code: PATTERNXMASDECOR

And finally, I want to show part of my “theme collection”. Oh yes, I’m not a threads holic, I’m a thread collector! haha
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Tatting in resin part 2

Tatting in resin, part 2.

Hello everyone!!
I was glad to receive feedback on my previous post. Thank you all for your support and interest in my blog! Please leave more comments, questions, suggestions. Because it will help me to make blog better, more useful and more interesting for you, dear subscribers!

Have you watched my video “Tatting in resin?” Welcome and liked, please! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHCUs5n3Gw8&t=1s

So, today we’ll talk about molds for epoxy resin. What are the molds for epoxy? These forms made in latex, polyurethane, polysulfide and silicone. We can divide all types of molds into two large groups: purchased molds and homemade molds. Usually, it is believed that the silicone is the best material for both groups. It is believed that silicone is the most optimal material for both groups. Because Silicone mold is subject to elastic deformation, and its walls are smooth, which makes it possible to easily remove frozen products from resin. Of course, you can make your own molds from special silicone for molds and fancy objects. These products will have an unusual interesting shape. But I would advise starting with simple purchased molds until you gain enough experience.

My little trick: I sometimes use lids from plastic containers. However, you must first make a test fill to work with such “extraneous” objects. Because the final product may not be smooth, not glossy. Or, in general, it may not separate from the form, alas …

You can also make fillings in metal frames or homemade silicone fences. I tried to make a silicone heart frame, and I got … Nothing worked, because the silicone leaked overboard. 🙂 I understood my mistake and will return to the correction when there is time.

Thus, first you have to make a choice and answer the following question: What do I want to do? According to your fantasies, choose a mold! But everything is so simple, haha! I originally wanted to make a small heart 6X6 cm, but could not find a suitable size and shape of the mold. The most suitable mold for my design was about 5X5 cm. Therefore, I had to change the pattern for tatting my heart several times. The threads became thinner and thinner, the pattern became more interesting and more interesting, and in the end I got three options that I am pleased with! And which heart option do you like?

Tatting in resin, part 2

Finally, I bought suitable molds. Oh, my plans are so vast that I bought several types (it’s impossible to stop!). 🙂

Would you like to get a perfect smooth surface for the finished fill? Then, first of all, you need to prepare molds for work. How to do it? I immerse molds in soapy water (dishwashing liquid), then rinse with water under the tap. After washing, I spread the wet molds on a towel to dry. So that I do not have to wash my forms every time, I store them in a closed package. In this way, dust and debris do not contaminate the mold. And I can always get to work! Also, you can keep Molds in a closed box.

Here’s another little trick for you! I wrote a table. In this table, I drew (schematically) my molds and wrote the volume for each of them. It is very convenient, when mix the exact amount of solution for work. I usually make several different products at a time. How to measure the volume of mold? Take a syringe and clean water. You can calculate how much water enters the form if you look at the digital scale. Everything is very easy!

So, my story “Tatting in resin, part 2” turned out to be quite long. I will not abuse your patience! To be continued …
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I invite everyone to take advantage of a 10% discount on any pattern in my store, of course. Coupon Code: PATTERNXMASDECOR https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/

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Tatting in resin, part 1

Tatting in resin, part 1.

Hello everyone! According to your many requests, I begin to tell how I do tatting in resin. The previous post on tatting in resin you will see here: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/2019/11/15/tatting-in-resin/

I will try to make my story very detailed. So please be patient. 🙂 Because I can not do one post only. In this case, my post will be too long. Subscribe to my blog to keep abreast of the continuation of this topic. And you can ask any questions in the comments. I will always answer with pleasure. I also ask you to pay attention: this is my personal experience. And you can have your own opinion that does not coincide with mine.

Tatting in resin, keychains
Tatting in resin, keychains

Here are a few rules that I have defined for myself. I’m sure some of the rules will appeal to you too. 🙂

1. You must be in a great mood to create beautiful products!

2. You should be careful and not be distracted during the filling process. Otherwise, your “milk will run away”! 🙂

3. Strictly adhere to the resin manufacturer’s instructions. Because epoxy from different manufacturers have differences, but the main points are similar.

4. The temperature in your workshop should be + 25˚ C (in any case, approach this indicator). This is a very important point, because at a lower temperature in the room the resin will not be sufficiently fluid. In addition, it will be very difficult for you to get rid of air bubbles in the solution, alas.

5. Use TRANSPARENT plastic containers to mix resin and hardener. Transparent plastic cups are the most comfortable. Because you can clearly see in such containers the homogeneity of the solution and the presence of air bubbles.

6. Always wear protective gloves. No matter how I try to be careful, when working with resin, my hands get dirty anyway. Maybe you will be more accurate! 🙂

7. I also recommend that you prepare a table mat. For example, an old cutting mat will help you protect workplace from stains. And supply of paper napkins or rags will not hurt you! In any case, for me it is not superfluous.

8. I measure the weight of the components very accurately when mixing the solution. You can use a scale or syringe for this. I will talk about the intricacies of measuring components in the following posts.

I use silicone molds of different shapes and sizes.
Also I want to say that I do not use ultraviolet lamps or other heating devices. Because not all types of resin can be exposed to ultraviolet radiation. And special devices (such as a pressure tank or a vacuum chamber) are best used in large volumes. Anyway, I do without it!

So, my standard set for pouring consists of the following things: old cutting mat, resin, hardener, two plastic cups, disposable gloves, wooden sticks for stirring, scales, two syringes without needles, napkins, molds.

I hope you enjoyed my rules and you will enjoy using some of them. For example, the first rule (about a good mood) is useful to you for all occasions! 🙂 Do you agree? If you were interested, subscribe to my blog, ask questions in the comments. In the meantime, watch my video for a good mood! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHCUs5n3Gw8&t=1s

Do not forget to check my store, welcome! https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/

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Tatting in resin

tatting in resin, handmade jewelry set

Tatting in resin. What is it? Perhaps I do not know the terminology very well. But the essence of the process is very accurately conveyed by these words: tatting lace frozen in resin.

Of course, fans of tatting for sure know the history of this beautiful kind of needlework. Some historians believe that the tatting technique originated in eastern countries in the 14th century! So over the years, tatting has undergone many changes and improvements. I already wrote about this in my blog. Nowadays, the art of tatting gets a new life. And this is very good! Do you agree with me?

Unfortunately, often we see antique tatting items in a deplorable state. So tatting is made of thread. The threads were not always of very high quality, I think. Alas, the threads are not very durable material. And the threads require careful care. But how to keep lace for long, long time in perfect condition? I decided to combine the old tatting technique with modern synthetic material – epoxy resin.

Oh, I had to do a lot of experiments! I messed up 1/2 liter of resin! I threw out more than 30 fragments of lace! If you are interested in how I achieved acceptable results, please write in the comments. I will make a series of articles on the topic of “tatting in resin” and share my experience without fail. The main difficulty when working with lace and resin is to achieve transparency of the resin and make very small pieces of lace. If we use big lace pieces, we need big molds. Therefore, the finished product will be bulky. Is not it? I made some patterns for little keychains. For example, “Rose Garden Alphabet.” Each letter is no larger than 1 inch. You can see this alphabet here: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/product/rose-garden-alphabet-tatting-pattern/

Rose Garden Alphabet for tatting in resin

And I also made a short video to demonstrate some of my ideas for tatting in resin. Welcome, please! https://youtu.be/fHCUs5n3Gw8

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Results of the competition for tatters

Results of the competition for tatters summed up today! So I hope you enjoyed the contest and you took part in it with pleasure.

Firstly, I thank all the participants of my competition! Thanks for the great names for my new doily (your fantasy is commendable, of course!).
Secondly, I got into a rather difficult situation. It’s impossible to choose – all the names are beautiful and I like everything! Therefore, it was necessary to conduct a secret voting. Thirdly, I decided to slightly change the rules of the competition. According to the new rule results of the competition for tatters these are:

Rules:

The author of the best name and the most active follower will receive as gift for tatters “Three snowflakes tatting patter” free, https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/product/three-snowflakes-tatting-patterns/

SIX participants receive tatting pattern 3D Bow. https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/product/tatting-pattern-3d-bow/

Ta-daaaaa!!!! Here are the winners:

Diane Brown – first prize;

second prizes:

Amritha Prabhu, Bebe, Jacqueline Rot, Joan Thomas , Linda Barnes, Michele Waite!!!!!!!

And finally, my new doily gets its wonderful name: Winter Glitz. Translated from German, this means Winter Shine. But I really like how it sounds in German. It is sounds bright and dazzling, like the radiance of the sun on immaculately white snow! Thank You, Diane Brown!

Results of the competition for tatters - Winter Glitz - tatting doily
Results of the competition for tatters – Winter Glitz

Dear winners, check your email, please! I sent you patterns.

But these are not all gifts! My Christmas present for you – 10% discount on all patterns in my store. Coupon Code: PATTERNXMASDECOR

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Tricks tatting (cluny)

I called my post today, “Tricks tatting (cluny).” Why? Read to the end, please, and you will understand me. 🙂

In a previous post, I talked about additional tools that help me in tatting. https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/2019/10/22/additional-tools-for-tatting/
Thanks for the questions and comments. So, at the request of my reader, I return to this topic (very little!)
You asked me to show how I use a piece of thin wire. This is an indispensable helper for weaving cluny (leaves). You can find many articles and photos about the process of working on cluny on the Internet. But best of all, watch the video of the talented master tatting master Karen Cabrera. You will recognize her by long nails and a dazzling smile 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsm37KxFxjE

Pay attention to a piece of thin wire. This is exactly the tatting trick that I spoke about before.

For needle tatters, a link to a video about cluny. The author of this lesson is Geogria Seitz. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_VVZBEq59g

And now it’s time to explain why I called this post: Tricks tatting (cluny).

Do you know that this technique is used in bobbin lace? I do not presume to say where this method originated earlier. An important fact is that all types of needlework are interconnected and complementary. Is not it?

I was struck by the extraordinary beauty of Elisa du Sud’s creations , in which cluny were used many, many, many times!

Of course, I was so inspired that I could not resist! These are my little tatting pieces ( based on Elisa du Sud’s patterns).

tatting, cluny

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Front and back side tatting

Does front and back side tatting? Oh yes of course! Are you surprised? Often novice tatters do not pay attention to this nuance. However, following this rule will help you make your lace more neat and presentable. Want to test yourself? Look carefully at these photos. Which of these earrings do you think is right? You can write your option in the comments, please!

The correct earrings in photo 1 and 4. Let’s see what is wrong with earrings 2 and 3? All rings in earrings 2 and 3 are made wrong, unfortunately. Therefore, picots at the rings in these cases look messy. Compare lilac earrings with red earrings. The difference is obvious! Do you agree?

I do not get tired of repeating this rule to my students, and I always write this reminder in the instructions for my patterns:

When making the double stitches on the back side, make the second half of the second stitch fixture and the first half of the double stitch next

So, if you are not yet using this rule in your tatting, try it! I am sure you will like the new look of your lace. Such work requires more focus and attention, of course. But it’s worth it. Because the front and back side of your tatting will turn out perfect! But again, each tatter chooses a method that he likes best.

I want to draw your attention to the following fact. I did not come up with this method, of course. This method has existed for a long time. Not everyone pays attention to the differences as a result of the first and second method.
This is an excerpt from Book 6 “Tatting Talk: A Self-Improvement Guide for Tatters” Needle Tatting Basics Part 2 by Georgia Seitz revised 6-21-98:
Remember, if you prefer the all right side up look, just do the half stitches in reverse order.
And, of course, I suggest visiting the blog from Frivole: http://leblogdefrivole.blogspot.com/2016/02/reverse-stitches.html The article is very interesting and reveals deeper terminology (I did not try to make my post so professional).

Subscribe to my blog. Comment and ask questions. I will be happy to help with tips! And of course, do not forget to visit my store, welcome! https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/

And welcome to my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wETpH0sP56o&list=UU3dn4_9pp7tIKA2k564wLBQ&index=1