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Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas to all my readers! I wish you all happiness, peace, love and prosperity!

I really appreciate your friendship! Thanks so much for support of my blog. Therefore I give a small Christmas gift for all tatting fans. 15% discount on all patterns. The discount is valid from December 24 to January 1. Coupon Code: christmasgiftforall

I invite you to watch a fun video on my YouTube channel:

Carol of the Bells is an adaptation of an ancient Ukrainian folk song called a “shchedrivka”.  An arrangement by Mykola Leontovych (1877-1921) was popularized in the 1930’s by Oleksander Koshyts (1875-1944), a Ukrainian choir director who worked in the US and Canada.  It has since
become an American Christmas classic.

I hope you know and love this song.

Hark how the bells,
sweet silver bells,
all seem to say,
throw cares away
Christmas is here,
bringing good cheer,
to young and old,
meek and the bold,
ding dong ding
that is their song
with joyful ring
all caroling
one seems to hear
words of good cheer
from everywhere
filling the air
Oh how they pound,
raising the sound,
o’er hill and dale,
telling their tale,
Gaily they ring
while people sing
songs of good cheer,
Christmas is here,
Merry, merry, merry, merry Christmas,
Merry, merry, merry, merry Christmas,
On on they send ,
on without end,
their joyful tone to every home
Dong Ding dong ding, dong Bong

Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas
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Tatting in resin final

Tatting in resin, final. Hello everyone! I hope you weren’t scared by my long, long, long story of how I do tatting in resin. Because in fact, this process is not so complicated and long. You will need only attention and accuracy for successful execution. And of course, I would really like to see more of your feedback and comments, please.

Tatting in resin final
Tatting in resin, final

So, the last time we stopped at the second fill. I usually leave molds with resin for 2 days. Because during this time, the resin completely hardens.

I release frozen products from molds. Unfortunately, not all molds have openings. Therefore, I have to do it myself.

I use a small hand drill and drills with a diameter of 2 mm.

When drilling holes, you must place the product on a flat surface. But be sure to lay a cloth so that your resin does not get scratched. You do not want to spoil this beauty! Yes?

Now that all the products have holes,

I insert paper clips into these holes.

After all, now the time has come to varnish finished products. And it’s very convenient for me to hold the products by a paper clip. I rotate the frozen resin in different directions and apply the protective varnish evenly. Very easy!

Then I hang up the varnished items to dry. By the way, I use my cake molds and long knitting needles. And I MANDATORY hide my products from the sun (I cover it with a cloth again).

I strictly adhere to the instructions of the varnish manufacturer. Therefore, I repeat the process in 2-3 hours. That is, I varnish the product twice!

Look what happens to the resin, which I did not hide from the sun during the work and did not varnish.

Finally, the finishing touch remained! I attach the necessary metal fittings.

And finally, “cherry on the cake”! This is my branded packaging. Next time I will talk about this in detail.

Hooray! I did it! My long story “Tatting in the resin” is over. Ask questions in the comments, subscribe to my blog to be in the know!

As usual, I invite you to check out my store:

And of course, welcome to my YouTube channel:

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Tatting in resin part 5

Tatting in resin part 5. Hello everyone! Without a long introduction, I continue the story of how I do tatting in resin.

So, our mixture of resin and hardener is ready. We made a transparent, homogeneous substance.

Now I fill the molds with resin using a syringe.

At the very beginning of the work, I calculated the required volume of resin and divided it by 2. Do you remember? Because I fill the molds only to half. I tried to fill completely, but got a sad result. In this case, the lace is deformed and bent in resin.

Then I cover the filled forms with a plastic container. I use forms after cakes, but you may find something else.

And I cover a plastic container with a piece of cloth. I hide tar from the sun, so as not to get terrible yellowed products.

Now I will leave the resin for about 2 hours. I observe the degree of cure of the resin, because this is a very important point. You should get a soft, sticky surface. But the resin does not have to be very liquid. Because then the pieces of lace are deformed. And we will get a sad result. By the way, I tat in advance pieces of tatting .

Then I put pieces of lace and beads in the molds. I do this with tweezers. After all, it turns out neater and more convenient.

After that, I cover the molds with a container and a cloth. I can do other things now! Typically, the resin solidifies completely after 20-24 hours. After that I continue the tatting process in resin.

Tatting in resin part 5. Second fill

So, the next day I repeat the pouring process. That is, I mix the resin and fill the second half of the molds.

I get 2-3 air bubbles in the fill sometimes. And then I easily remove the bubbles with a wooden stick.

And then I put the molds under the container and the fabric again for 20-24 hours.

I hope you are not very tired of reading such a long text. “Tatting in resin part 5” turned out to be the penultimate post about my experience. But now I suggest you have fun and relax. Have a nice weekend! I will finish the topic “tatting in resin” next time necessarily. Thanks for the support and attention to my blog.
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Tatting in resin part 4

Tatting in resin, part 4.

Hello everyone! First, I want to thank everyone for the great reviews and comments about my blog. Your kind words are very important to me. I am inspired! But soon my topic of tatting in resin will end. What will I write? Again I ask you, dear readers. What do you want to know about? Are there topics that are interesting and important to you? Maybe browsing my store will tell you ideas for my new posts?

Tatting in resin part 4
Tatting in resin part 4

So, today is the article “Tatting in resin, part 4”. You read carefully my previous posts on this subject, I hope. 🙂 I talked about tools, molds, threads. Thus, gradually we came to the most important moment ( ta-daaaa!). I am sure my advice will help you make the perfect transparent tatting in resin! After all, now I will show how I work with resin.

I start work with mathematical calculations. (Ha ha! That sounds very clever, right?)

Do you remember my table for determining the volume of molds? I talked about this before. Thus, I calculate how much resin and hardener I need. Then I divide the result by 2. This is an important point! Because I do the fill in two steps. It took me a few experiments to come to this conclusion.

Then I pour the resin into a transparent plastic cup. I carefully monitor the volume (everything is exactly according to the calculations!).

Oh God, what terrible hands I have! No, these are just medical gloves! 🙂

Do you see what a cloudy resin from many-many-many bubbles?

Resin manufacturer’s instructions

I do not know which resin you are using. Therefore, I ask you to pay attention to the manufacturer’s instructions. The instructions for my epoxy indicate: put the container with the resin in hot water to completely dissolve the air bubbles. You may not see such an item in your instructions, but try it! This will be your personal experiment.

I take a cup and a kettle of hot water.

And voila, I got the perfect result in 10 minutes!

In the meantime, I prepared the molds for pouring. I already told you the best way to store forms. Therefore, I do not need to wash molds every time. If I notice a speck of dust or a small speck, I wipe the mold with a cotton swab. Because everything must be perfectly clean!

The next step, I pour the hardener into the resin (do not forget about the accuracy)!

After that I have to mix the composition thoroughly.

Rules when mixing the resin.

I came up with these rules for myself, but you can use them, of course.

First, I mix the resin and the hardener is NOT FAST. Because with a high mixing speed, I get sooooo many bubbles (alas). Secondly, I DO NOT REMOVE the stick from the solution until mixing is complete. Because it leads to the formation of large air bubbles every time you raise and lower the stick.

Thirdly, I use TRANSPARENT cup to see the state of mixed. Fourth, I leave the solution alone after stirring for 3-5 minutes, so that the small bubbles disappear.

Fifth, I pour the settled mixture into a clean plastic cup MANDATORY!

Oh, how many words I wrote today! I will not abuse your patience, so I will end my story about the filling process in the next post.
Please, make comments, ask questions, drop by my store, join my YouTube channel and, of course, subscribe to my blog to be in the know!

In conclusion, I remind you: a 10% discount on all patterns in my store ends on December 15th. Hurry up! Coupon Code: PATTERNXMASDECOR

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Tatting in resin part 3

Tatting in resin, part 3.

Hello everyone!

I am got a lot of chagrin and disappointment, alas …My previous post gained few views and comments. Are you not interested? In this case, my efforts make no sense. Why am I wasting time and effort describing my experience with tatting resin? I know how to make tatting in resin. 🙁 I thought you would be interested in this topic. Because after starting publications on this topic I received a lot of views, reviews and suggestions from visitors to my blog. Sorry, but I have to appeal to all readers again. Subscribe to my blog and leave comments, please. Of course, only if you are interested! 🙂 Because without feedback my blog does not make sense. Sorry for the emotions …

So, “Tatting in Resin, Part 3”. Today I will talk about the threads that I use.

In previous posts, I wrote how difficult the thread selection process was. Because the thickness of the thread is very important for the size of the finished sample tatting. I determined that the most suitable threads are thickness # 50 (for my projects, of course).

I chose two types of thread: cotton and polyester.

Most I like to weave thin cotton threads. These threads are made straight, tightly twisted. I tat very small pieces, therefore quite difficult to hide the end threads. But it is enough to make a strong knot and shortly cut the end treads. I made sure, that in this case the knot does not untie and tatted piece not deteriorate. By the way, I noticed an interesting effect! I get a brighter shade of thread when I put a piece of tatting in resin.

Tatting in resin

But I want to say that polyester threads are also good. The more that I found surprisingly gentle pastel shades of different colors. Do you see how these threads glisten in resin?

I am sure you will like these pastel colors.

And I was convinced, that the shade of threads is brighter in the resin. I think this is a consequence of the refraction of rays in a transparent resin. But I will not bore you with the study of physics and optics!

I checked, for polyester yarns it’s not enough to knit and trim the end. I had to slightly melt the ends of the thread with fire. Yes, it works! But I got a little problem. You must be very careful with a white thread. 🙂 Because with arson the themes darken.

I got unpleasant yellow spots on white threads. And oh horror! They spread in the resin, like ink stains. I was forced to throw it away.

In any case, now I try to be careful when working with new threads! First I make trial samples. And of course, I “try on” each woven piece into molds.

Oh, I do not want to tell how many times I changed the pattern for “Rose Garden Alphabet”! But the final result was suitable!

You can buy this pattern and make a small personalized keychain. I remind : you can buy any pattern in my store with a 10% discount until December 15th. Coupon Code: PATTERNXMASDECOR

And finally, I want to show part of my “theme collection”. Oh yes, I’m not a threads holic, I’m a thread collector! haha
Subscribe to my blog, comment and ask questions. Your opinion is very important to me! An I really hope that my blog is interesting to you, like my YouTube channel!

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Tatting in resin part 2

Tatting in resin, part 2.

Hello everyone!!
I was glad to receive feedback on my previous post. Thank you all for your support and interest in my blog! Please leave more comments, questions, suggestions. Because it will help me to make blog better, more useful and more interesting for you, dear subscribers!

Have you watched my video “Tatting in resin?” Welcome and liked, please!

So, today we’ll talk about molds for epoxy resin. What are the molds for epoxy? These forms made in latex, polyurethane, polysulfide and silicone. We can divide all types of molds into two large groups: purchased molds and homemade molds. Usually, it is believed that the silicone is the best material for both groups. It is believed that silicone is the most optimal material for both groups. Because Silicone mold is subject to elastic deformation, and its walls are smooth, which makes it possible to easily remove frozen products from resin. Of course, you can make your own molds from special silicone for molds and fancy objects. These products will have an unusual interesting shape. But I would advise starting with simple purchased molds until you gain enough experience.

My little trick: I sometimes use lids from plastic containers. However, you must first make a test fill to work with such “extraneous” objects. Because the final product may not be smooth, not glossy. Or, in general, it may not separate from the form, alas …

You can also make fillings in metal frames or homemade silicone fences. I tried to make a silicone heart frame, and I got … Nothing worked, because the silicone leaked overboard. 🙂 I understood my mistake and will return to the correction when there is time.

Thus, first you have to make a choice and answer the following question: What do I want to do? According to your fantasies, choose a mold! But everything is so simple, haha! I originally wanted to make a small heart 6X6 cm, but could not find a suitable size and shape of the mold. The most suitable mold for my design was about 5X5 cm. Therefore, I had to change the pattern for tatting my heart several times. The threads became thinner and thinner, the pattern became more interesting and more interesting, and in the end I got three options that I am pleased with! And which heart option do you like?

Tatting in resin, part 2

Finally, I bought suitable molds. Oh, my plans are so vast that I bought several types (it’s impossible to stop!). 🙂

Would you like to get a perfect smooth surface for the finished fill? Then, first of all, you need to prepare molds for work. How to do it? I immerse molds in soapy water (dishwashing liquid), then rinse with water under the tap. After washing, I spread the wet molds on a towel to dry. So that I do not have to wash my forms every time, I store them in a closed package. In this way, dust and debris do not contaminate the mold. And I can always get to work! Also, you can keep Molds in a closed box.

Here’s another little trick for you! I wrote a table. In this table, I drew (schematically) my molds and wrote the volume for each of them. It is very convenient, when mix the exact amount of solution for work. I usually make several different products at a time. How to measure the volume of mold? Take a syringe and clean water. You can calculate how much water enters the form if you look at the digital scale. Everything is very easy!

So, my story “Tatting in resin, part 2” turned out to be quite long. I will not abuse your patience! To be continued …
Subscribe, leave comments, ask questions. I will be glad to talk!

I invite everyone to take advantage of a 10% discount on any pattern in my store, of course. Coupon Code: PATTERNXMASDECOR