My articles are also accompanied by video tutorials. Along with the article, I add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to learn. Then it will be easier for me to make a lessons plan.
Today I wrote a very short article. Because there is no point in describing what is better to watch! Do you agree?
In the video I showed 4 ways to connect the last and first rings in the motif. So let me say a few words about each method.
Method 1 is good because when connecting you can use up join or down join (as you like).
The second method is called folded join (if I’m wrong, please write to me in the comments).
Method 3 I saw in Marilee Rockley’s video. She uses this method of joining because it is convenient for her. By the way, you can come up with and use your own method. And this proves once again that tatting is not a dogma, but an art!
Ah, I would like to name the fourth method after myself (LOL). Because I came up with it myself. And I watched a lot of videos on the Internet, but I did not find such a way of connecting. Maybe I did not search well? But I like this method. For me it is the most understandable and easy. And also when doing it you can use up join or down join.
Don’t forget to comment, like and share my videos and articles on social media, please! Also I thank all my friends, subscribers and followers for their support! Happy tatting!
My articles are also accompanied by video tutorials. Along with the article, I add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to learn. Then it will be easier for me to make a lessons plan.
You can also read the article (and download the pattern for free) on the topic How to read tatting patterns, where I talk about different options for instructions for tatting patterns. https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/how-to-read-tatting-patterns/
But today I would like to show you a graphic diagram and tell you about a little trick. I am sure it will be especially useful and interesting for beginners.
Often beginners ask the question: where to find the beginning of the work on the graphic diagram?
You will be surprised, but you can start anywhere! Although usually designers indicate where the beginning of the work is. For example, I put a small red circle on the drawing to indicate the start.
Option 1 beginning of work in graphical diagram
Most often we start working with the Ring. Look at this pattern. We start working with the first of three rings in the trefoil. In the video, you can see that I used one shuttle and a ball. Therefore, I had to make one simple knot in places where it was necessary to swap the shuttle and ball threads. The link to the video is at the end of the article.
And so we make 6 identical elements: trefoil, chain, ring, chain. We attach each first ring to the third ring of the previous trefoil. And we attach the seventh trefoil to the previous and first trefoil. What do we get? We already have a closed motif. But we need to complete the seventh time Chain – Ring – Chain. And since my motto is “nothing is impossible”, I showed on video how it works. This is the motif I got.
Option 2 beginning of work in graphical diagram
But let’s change the picture just a little bit. Look, I moved the beginning of the work, and now our pattern starts with the combination Chain – Ring – Chain. You will see in the video, I used a paper clip to start. But you can take a short thick thread, for example.
Oh, how I love this way of finishing the work! I attached the last chain to the first one, removing the paper clip. And I just have to make the last trefoil. Believe me, this option is much more convenient. Voila, it’s done!
By the way, this pattern can be made with a needle too. And use this option to start the work. I’m sure you’ll like it!
Don’t forget to comment, like and share my videos and articles on social media, please! Also I thank all my friends, subscribers and followers for their support!
My articles are also accompanied by video tutorials. Along with the article, I add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to learn. Then it will be easier for me to make a lesson plan.
You can also ask me questions in the comments, I am ready to help!
Today is a very short article. But I added a lot of links to video tutorials. And please don’t throw slippers at me when you start watching today’s video! LOL Because in order not to make this video last up to an hour, I showed short excerpts from my detailed tutorials “How to make a split ring”. But, these excerpts are very much sped up and shortened. Of course, I’m sure you’ll agree, it makes no sense to duplicate what is already on my channel. I know 9 way how to make Split Ring. Maybe you know another one? Please write in the comments. It will be very interesting. In addition, in the descriptions under the video you can read the names of each method (at least the names that I know). I will also be glad if you write in the comments under the video the names that I do not know for the methods demonstrated.
Detachable blue collar necklace for Dress Sia Glass
And finally, a link to today’s video lesson Perfect tatting – Part 13, how to attach a Split Ring to the previous element: https://youtu.be/bgaH-SduZ34
Don’t forget to comment, like and share my videos and articles on social media, please! Happy tatting! Thank you!
My articles are also accompanied by video tutorials. Along with the article, I add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to learn. Then it will be easier for me to make a lesson plan.
You can also ask me questions in the comments, I am ready to help!
Oh, you must admit, it’s very annoying when a couple of three sloppy picots spoil the product and the mood of the master! I’m talking about curled picots.
Today I want to show several simple ways to avoid this mistake.
SHUTTLE TATTING
First, try to wind the threads onto the shuttle correctly. Do not wind the thread around the shuttle, but rotate the shuttle. By the way, there are various devices for winding threads onto the shuttle. I know that some craftsmen use sewing machines for this (for “bobbin shuttles”).
Secondly, try to place the shuttle horizontally. I have a special device for this. It is very convenient. Because the shuttle rotates around the axis and the thread does not twist. By the way, you can use this technique while weaving as well.
Thirdly, spin the shuttle more often! This is a very simple technique, but popular and used by absolutely all tatters! Or am I wrong?
Fourth, you can also untwist the ball. This is especially true when making chains. Use a ball-point needle to secure the thread. And “send the ball on the carousel”!
NEEDLE TATTING
Unwinding the ball can also be useful for needle tatting.
Also, use the horizontal ball placement method. If the ball is big enough, you can take a knitting needle and attach it together with the ball to a box, for example. I have an oval box made of cord for this purpose.
And of course, don’t forget to untwist the needle more often.
My articles are also accompanied by video tutorials. Along with the article, I add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to learn. Then it will be easier for me to make a lesson plan.
You can also ask me questions in the comments, I am ready to help!
I often hear from beginner tutters: My chains are twisted! What am I doing wrong? Because, most often, this problem arises from the incorrect position of the shuttle and ball threads (for needle tatting, this is the needle and ball thread).
First, let’s remember the terminology! So, I’m turning to the ABC Tatting website again: https://abctattingpatterns.com/terms/ These are the names accepted in English:
Ball Thread (BT): Thread originating from the ball of thread.
Core Thread: a.k.a. foundation thread, shuttle thread, needle thread or running thread. Traditionally, the shuttle or needle thread is used as the core thread. It used like a clothesline upon which the double stitch hangs.
Although, in other languages, these may be other names. For example, a shuttle thread or a needle thread is called a leading thread. Because it kind of leads the double stitches. And a ball thread is called a working thread. Because it “works” by tying knots. What are these threads called in your language? Please write in the comments. It’s very interesting!
Shuttle tatting
So, first, let’s look at shuttle tatting.
Note that the main (shuttle) thread is always in the right hand. If you are right-handed! And we are not looking at pearl weaving, split ring, etc. techniques.
For left-handers, it’s the other way around.
Thus, the Core thread is always BELOW the Ball thread. By the way, you remember Ball thread can also be wound on the second shuttle?! But the name of the thread is still retained for convenience.
It is interesting that when performing the Ring, the same thread is the Core and the Ball threads. The role of the Ball thread is played by the thread that forms a loop on the hand.
If you are going to make a Chain after turning the work, you just need to move the Ball of Thread upwards (if it was not located there initially). This way, the threads will be in their places again after turning. Namely: the main thread in the right hand, and the Ball of Thread above it. By the way, pay attention! The threads do not cross!
If the pattern does not call for you to turn before the Chain, you need to swap the threads. It’s very simple! Make one simple knot, as if you were tying shoelaces. Similarly, change the threads after the chain, when moving to the Ring without turning the work.
NEEDLE TATTING
There is a small nuance for needle tatting. Firstly, most often we work with only one thread from the ball. How interesting, but the same thread “bifurcates” and becomes the Needle thread ( or Core thread ) and the Ball thread. Do you know what separates them and thus “gives individuality by giving names”? ( LOL ) Of course, it’s a joke! But we can smile while doing tatting. And even while reading such a serious lesson Perfect tatting – Part 11. Because a good mood is always appropriate!This is the very first stitch that you make on the needle.
Thus, the thread from the eye of the needle to the stitch will be the Core Thread. And the thread from the stitch to the ball will be the Ball Thread. It’s simple.
I’m sure you can guess which photo illustrates the work for right-handed people and which one for left-handed people!
When turning the work, we also make one simple knot to swap the threads. If there is no work rotation, then we will need to make two knots. This way we fix the element and do not swap the threads.
Thus, remembering the correct position of the threads, we will always get perfect, untwisted Chains!
Unfortunately, cro-tatting is not a very common type of tatting. Probably because for this type of needlework you need to have skills for two techniques at once: tatting with a needle and crochet. But now, with the advent of high-quality tools for cro-tatting, the popularity of this type is growing. However, there are very few patterns and instructions for cro-tatting. So I am often asked if any tatting pattern can be used for cro-tatting. Yes, of course! And in this article I will tell you how to independently adapt ANY tatting pattern for cro-tatting.
For example, I took a free pattern on the website Handy Hands “Sand Dollar Pendant”, adapted by Kendra Goodnow. You can download this manual by taking a screenshot or by following the link: https://hhtatting.com/free-patterns/free-tatting-patterns/
For clarity, I, as always, made a short video. Please comment, like, subscribe to my channel! https://youtu.be/Pltwb6JgGiM
Step 1
First we need to make a small sample of the chosen pattern.
To do this, take the threads of the thickness indicated in the instructions. Make the first two Rings and the chain according to the graphic diagram. You can do this with the tool you prefer, a shuttle or a needle.
Step 2
To do this, take the threads of the thickness indicated in the instructions. Make the first two Rings and the chain according to the graphic diagram.
You can do this with the tool you prefer, a shuttle or a needle.
Step 3
Now take a hook for cro-tatting of the appropriate thickness and make the first ring.
Compare this ring with the previous sample. Usually the difference in size between the rings is quite small. But if you are making a large project with many rows, it is better to check. If the crochet ring is much larger than the sample, you should reduce the number of double stitches.
Step4
Now crochet 15 chains (as shown in the diagram), using cro-tatting hook. Unravel the extra chains. I got 10 chains. In our pattern, all Chains are 15 double stitches. So we don’t need more measurements. In the new pattern, each Chain will consist of 10 chains.
So our graphic diagram looks like this.
The final
You can tie the outer row as you like.
I hope you enjoyed and found Cro-tatting Lesson 8 useful. You can support my channel with likes, reposts and comments! Thanks in advance to everyone who donates to my PayPal: fish20085@gmail.com Thank you!
Embroidered Quilt, or recycling old clothes into beauty.
Hello everyone! I have posted several videos on my YouTube channel showing how I make an embroidered quilt. It is a lot of work, but I hope the results are worth it! So, first I cut up 2 old coats, 3 jackets and 2 pants. I cut out squares and embroidered each one. Of course, I couldn’t have done it without my amazing Bernina sewing and embroidery machine!
Finally all 121 blocks are embroidered. It was very difficult for me to choose the patterns for embroidery, because I have about 100 designs for embroidery blocks. In addition, on my machine you can combine different patterns together. So the options can be endless!
Now I can start connecting the blocks into strips. This method of joining is often used by quilters.
The first step is to place together the embroidered block, the lining, the folded strip for the back side and the strip for the front side.
Sew together. I use a seam guide when sewing to ensure that all seam allowances are the same and perfectly even.
Step two is to press the seam. I use a special mini iron. It saves time ( Of course, because I don’t have to get up and go to the ironing board every time ) and helps to achieve a perfect result!
Step three is to stitch the second block with the lining. And be sure to iron this seam.
Step four – sew close to the on the front side, catching the strip on the back side. To avoid having to baste each strip by hand before sewing, I also iron this strip. To avoid having to baste each strip by hand before sewing, I also iron this strip with my small iron.
Step five is a decorating stitch. I chose “Home Sweet Home”. I think it will add coziness and “cuteness” to my quilt. It will also strengthen the joints of the blocks.
Every block I sew brings me closer to finishing the work! Wish me patience and good luck! And also comment and subscribe to my blog! https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/blog/
Also my articles will be accompanied by video tutorials. Simultaneously with the article I will add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to know. Then it will be easier for me to make a lessons plan.
Also you can ask me questions in the comments, I’m ready to help!
Sometimes when making two or more rings in a row, there is a small distance between the rings, especially for beginner tatters.
This kind of trouble happens both when working with shuttles and when working with a needle. I want to show you how you can avoid this kind of mistake with a little tricks.
For tatting shuttle
After you make the first part of the first double stitch, press this knot with your fingernail. Oh, you don’t have to have long beautiful nails and a perfect manicure for this! Of cource, you can use short ones like mine, for example, LOL
Then do the second part of the double stitch and check your perfect result!
In this way you can make two, three or more rings.
For tatting needlee
Make the first ring. You can use method with knot. I told you about it in the previous lesson. This way you won’t have to make fixing knots between the rings. And before making the second and also all subsequent rings, place the needle exactly in the middle of the ring and press the needle to the ring with your fingers.
You will be surprised how easy it is to make the next ring perfectly close to the previous one if you position the needle just like this.
Perfect Tatting – Part 10 is finished! Happy tatting! I hope my previous blog posts will also be useful and interesting: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/blog/
Hello everyone! This is the ninth lesson in the series Perfect Tatting. You can read previous part here: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/perfect-tatting-part-8/
Also my articles will be accompanied by video tutorials. Simultaneously with the article I will add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to know. Then it will be easier for me to make a lessons plan.
Also you can ask me questions in the comments, I’m ready to help!
In this article I describe several ways to tighten the rings. Two ways for the shuttle and two ways for the needle.
The first method for the shuttle
I won’t even describe this method, because all tatters use it (well, almost all, but more on that later). We just tighten the Ring. But if you look closely at the photo, you’ll see a small knot between the shuttle and ball threads after the Ring is formed.
Madhur Dadlani Method
A few years ago I saw a video of how a talented tatting master from India, Madhur Dadlani, does tatting. Oh, the speed of her work is absolutely amazing! At the same time, the precision and accuracy of the knots are beyond praise! I was delighted with this mastery. It is not for nothing that in India she is called the “Queen of Tatting”!
But I also noticed how she tightens the Rings. Of course, I tried to repeat this technique. This technique has been known for a long time and is called “posting the shuttle”. But I first saw it with Madhur. So let me call this method by her name!
Before tightening the Ring, pull the shuttle through the loop where the double stitches of the Ring are located.
Pay attention to the placement of the threads. This is perfect, isn’t it?
The first method for the needle
I will not describe this method either, because absolutely all tatters who use a needle use this method (or not all? Write to me in the comments, please). The only “imperfection” of this method is the need to tie knots after each element to fix the Rings and Chains. In principle, these nodes are not very noticeable. But I know about them…
Needle Tatting. The Method with Knot
I admit, I watched a lot of videos for the needle. But I didn’t see another way anywhere. It’s quite possible that I wasn’t diligent enough in my search. So I came up with my own way. You need to twist the loop where the double stitches of the ring are located BEFORE you pull the needle through it.
Perfect Tatting – Part 9 is finished! Happy weekend! I hope my previous blog posts will also be useful and interesting: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/blog/
Hello everyone! This is the eigth lesson in the series Perfect Tatting. You can read previous part here: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/perfect-tatting-part-7/ Also my articles will be accompanied by video tutorials. Simultaneously with the article I will add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to know. Then it will be easier for me to make a lessons plan.
Also you can ask me questions in the comments, I’m ready to help!
So, today I want to take a closer look at the importance of number placement in tatting graphic designs. I already told you that the number is placed above the “cap”, this is logical and simplifies the drawing (read here: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/perfect-tatting-part-6/ ).
I suggest going back to the pattern from part 6. Graphic diagrams are also added to today’s video. To make the pattern easier to read, I write the abbreviation and instructions.
Option 1
Abbreviations: R – Ring; PVR – previous Ring; C – Chain; sp – small picot; jp – join picot; 1S – one shuttle; TS – two shuttles; tw – turn of work.
1S 1. R: 15, sp, 5, tw; TS 2. C: 10, tw; 1S 3. R. 5, jp to sp of PVR.
Option 2
This option for two shuttles.
Abbreviations: R – Ring; PVR – previous Ring; C – Chain; PVC – previous Chain; sp – small picot; jp – join picot; 1S – one shuttle; TS – two shuttles.
1S 1. R: 15, sp, 5; TS 2. C: 5, jp to sp of PVR, 5, sp, 5; 1S 3. R: 5, jp to sp of PVC, 15.
Option 3
This option for shuttle and ball.
Abbreviations: R – Ring; PVR – previous Ring; C – Chain; PVC – previous Chain; sp – small picot; jp – join picot; sk – simple knot to swap the threads; 1S – one shuttle; S + B – shuttle and ball.
1S 1. R: 15, sp, 5, sk; S + B 2. C: 5, jp to sp of PVR, 5, sp, 5, sk; 1S 3. R: 5, jp to sp of PVC, 15.
Option 4
Abbreviations: R – Ring; PVR – previous Ring; C – Chain; PVC – previous Chain; sp – small picot; jp – join picot; pk – one pearl knot to secure chain ( on the graphical diagram it is indicated by a star); 1S – one shuttle; TS – two shuttles; ts – turn of work.
1S 1. R: 15, sp, 5, tw; TS 2. C: 5, attach to sp of PVR, tw; 3. C: 5, pk, tw; 4. C: attach the clip, 5, tw; 1S 5. R: 5, detach the clip, jp to PVC, 15.
So, you see how important the placement of the numbers in the drawing is. Also, I think my detailed instructions will help you better understand how to read tatting patterns. After all, I add instructions to the drawings and photos. Actually, I do this for all my designs. I hope my long article didn’t bore you! Because the video is also quite long: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3qcvpiizmw&list=UULF3dn4_9pp7tIKA2k564wLBQ
Perfect Tatting – Part 8 is finished! Happy weekend! I hope my previous blog posts will also be useful and interesting: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/blog/
