Also my articles will be accompanied by video tutorials. I will add them to my YouTube channel.
Please write in the comments what subtleties you would like to know. Then it will be easier for me to make a lessons plan.
Today I wrote a very short article and added a short video. But I hope it will be very useful and informative!
So, in the last lesson I promised to tell you how to easily and quickly give rings different shapes. We talked about round, oval and teardrop shapes.
I watched a lot of videos on YouTube and noticed how many tutters (not all, of course) form rings. They simply pull the shuttle or needle, tightening the ring. In the video, I tried to show this method. Although I never use it. Unfortunately, in this case, the ring is asymmetrical and has to be adjusted. Or is it just me “be all fingers and thumbs”? LOL
Speaking of hands. I apologize for the unkempt look of my hands in the last videos and the lack of a manicure. I developed a terrible allergy to shellac nail polish. So I treated my fingers for a month. Today the doctor said that I can try regular polish. But I have to be very careful! Oh, I hope my hands will return to their attractive appearance. Take care of your hands, they are “every tatter’s treasure”!
Organization of space in the craft room, or how to store thread supplies.
Hello everyone! Today I organized my polyester thread supplies. I do this periodically. For some reason my thread supply is not decreasing. I think it’s due to frequent visits to the craft store. Ah, my willpower does not work at all when I see beautiful threads, fabrics, beads, accessories… (the list goes on and on!). I’m not a shopaholic, I’m a collector!
Of course, like any master, while working in the studio I have “artistic chaos”! But after finishing the project, I return the tools and the remaining supplies to their places.
These are not surgical instruments, these are my scissors! (the photo is old, so now there are a little more scissors).
I hung the most frequently used ones on the “scissor tree”! My handsome husband made this organizer for me. The rest of the scissors are in the box. On the shelves in boxes are accessories for jewelry, needle shuttles and hooks for tatting, and various small items.
Sewing threads are always in place. Two organizers for small and large spools were made for me… You already know who!
I store large balls of cotton thread in two wicker baskets. It’s better to put each ball in a plastic bag, so they don’t collect dust.
I always have a problem with polyester balls. These are the threads I use most often in my work. For example, I made this set of bookmarks from polyester threads in all the colors of the rainbow. https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/product/bookmarks-chakras-tatting-patterns/ At first I put the balls in a basket, then I decided to use a plastic container with a lid. But such storage is very inconvenient. And besides, the threads get tangled and intertwined unless I secure the tail of the thread with a piece of tape (and I sometimes forget to do this). It takes a lot of time and patience to unravel this mess!
While making my next thread purchase, I received two transparent thin plastic boxes from the store. They are not very convenient for storage because they are fragile and soft. But I have a large roll of cardboard and skillful hands! (Is it okay that I’m bragging, LOL!?) I made four cardboard boxes. Each box holds 10 balls. And two plastic boxes magically became four lids. Now each ball lies in its own “nest”. I don’t have to search for a long time for a ball of the right color, because I can see everything through the transparent lid. But I still have some balls left in a white plastic box. I think I need to buy more thread with a clear box…
Do you also praise yourself when you organize your supplies? Or are your threads always in perfect storage? I will be very interested if you share in the comments how you organization of space in the craft room.
11 ways add bead in tatting, or “maybe it would be easier to sew?”
Hello everyone! I’m sure many tatting masters have used beads at least once to decorate their products. Of course, this adds charm and shine to thread products. Do you agree? There are two directions of tatting, where beads and crystals are used in large quantities. These are Ankars and Beanile. Today I will not dwell on each of them in detail. Because the purpose of my article is different. I want to tell you how to correctly separate the beads between the shuttle and ball threads.
Sometimes people ask me: isn’t it easier to sew on beads? I answer – do as you like! And if we sew on a bead, then this is method 12, ha ha!
First, let’s remember what the threads in tatting are called. These are ball and shuttle threads. By the way, I again strongly advise you to use the link and read detailed information about the terminology on the ABS website. https://abctattingpatterns.com/terms/
In today’s video I use one shuttle and a ball. Therefore, I will not “wander into the thick forest” and talk about options with two shuttles. So, I’m starting!
First way add a bead in tatting
This is the easiest way (like method 2). We simply insert the bead into the picot on the Ring. To do this, we place the bead from the SHUTTLE thread in the loop on the hand. Place the bead between your fingers so that it does not interfere with your double stitches.
Second way
Here we also insert a bead into a picot, but on a Chain. Please note that the bead is located on the Ball thread.
Third way to add a bead
This bead is placed on a picot between two Rings (or Chains, it makes no difference). This is where you need a little more skill! First, measure the bead and select a suitable picot meter. Make the first Ring (or Chain) with a picot of the required size (we did measure the required length of the picot, didn’t we?!). Then make part of the second Ring (or Chain) to next picot. This will be a join picot with the previous element. Place the bead on a thin crochet hook, pull the picot through the bead and make a join picot. I’m not sure if I’m explaining this clearly, but the video will help us!
Way four
Bead on the Cord Thread inside the Ring. The bead is located on the SHUTTLE thread. To add a bead in this case, you do not need to move the bead into the loop on your hand. You just need to move the bead to the work in the right place and continue double stitches.
Fifth way to insert a bead in tatting
This method is a variant of the previous one. But the bead is located at the base of the Ring. To do this, we need to move the bead from the SHUTTLE thread into the loop on the hand. And when we form the Ring, the bead will be exactly where we planned!
The sixth way
As in the two previous methods, we add a bead to Core Thread, but in the Chain. And pay attention, the bead is located on the SHUTTLE thread, from where we will move it to the place we need.
How to add a bead to tatting, method seventh
This method is convenient when we use one shuttle. Add a bead to the SHUTTLE tharsd BETWEEN the rings. In the photo you can see the ball thread under the bead too. But this is also a possible option!
Eighth method
Add a bead to the BALL thread BETWEEN the two CHAINS. Have you already guessed where this bead was located?
Attention! Aerobatics!
These two options will require your concentration and dexterity. We will add a bead to the center of the Ring and Split Ring! I won’t bore you with a description (thanks for your patience!). But it’s better to watch the video please.
11 way
Add a bead to the middle of the Ring using extra thread. It’s elementary! I like this method.
So, I talked about 11 ways add bead in tatting. I’m sure now you know where to place the beads before starting work, on the shuttle or on the ball! And you will use beads more often and more variably! Look what my new bracelet looks like. I used methods 4 and 8. However, there are also sewn ones! The pattern is available in my store, check: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/product/bracelet-merrilyn-tatting-pattern/
I also added similar detailed video 11 ways add bead in tatting, specialty for needle tatting. I hope it will be useful and interesting: https://youtu.be/ZYxjRfrphOM
Today I want to answer one simple question. How to make three rings “without a hole” between them? I write “three rings” because I don’t know how this element is designated in different languages. In Ukrainian, for example, it is called a trefoil.
By the way, if your language is not in the list of built-in translators on my website, write to me in the comments. I will try to add the language you need. And I would also be very interested to know what country you live in when reading my blog. Can you write this in the comments please?
So, excuse the “lyrical digression”, I continue talking about the three rings. Although you can call this element Clover. On the ABC Tatting Patterns website there is a definition of Clover. I copied the paragraph, but you can follow the link and read it yourself. By the way, this is a wonderful resource not only for beginners, but also for experienced tatters. https://abctattingpatterns.com/terms/
Three rings, or Clover
Clover consists of three successive rings grouped together. The central ring may be larger than the side rings. It looks like a shamrock. However, the rings in a shamrock are the same size.
When working with shuttle tatting, this problem does not arise. Of course, if your knots are not “loose” , but neat. And when tatting with a needle, we can get such a picture. Do you see the hole?
Of course, I never tire of repeating that tatting is an art. Therefore, ABSOLUTELY ALL methods and techniques are acceptable. What the end result looks like is the master’s right to self-expression. Perhaps you have come up with a pattern that requires just such a Clover!
However, we are improving all the time, aren’t we? To do this, we must master new skills and techniques. The more “tools” we have in our arsenal, the more opportunities we get to implement our wildest projects! Oh, I just want to say: like it if you agree with me!
With and without rewerce of work
If you read my post about how many simple knots to make in work, you remember that there is a rule for ease of remembering. One knot means rewerce work, two knots means do not rewerce work. When we make three rings in a row, we make two knots after the first ring (do not rewerce work), then two knots after the second ring (do not rewerce work again). And after the third ring we have two pattern options. So, it depends on the design.
If we don’t rewerce work, we make two knots. But after the first knot, you need to pull the needle and thread into the base of the first ring and then make the second knot. If we need to rewerce work after Clover, then we make one knot. But (attention!) Before the knot, you need to pull the needle and thread into the base of the first ring.
I hope you found it useful and interesting to read and watch! Subscribe to my blog. Write in the comments what questions about tatting you would like answered. I will be happy to help with tips!
I admit, I’m a little discouraged. The previous article was read by 156 visitors (according to site statistics). And only ONE left a comment. Perhaps my article was not useful and interesting? Therefore, I doubt whether it is worth continuing this topic.
Or you don’t know how to leave a comment? It’s very simple! Scroll UP the screen. Click on the word “Comments” above the article title.
When you go down, you will see a window for your comment.
Believe me, your feedback is very important to me. Because it helps me make the site more interesting and useful. And also your comments will raise my site in the search rankings. This means that more beginner tatters will be able to find these articles. Sorry for going off topic and thanks in advance for your support!
Front and back sides of tatting
Have you noticed the placement of the “caps” above the double stitches? On the front and back sides their location does NOT match. Although from both sides it looks absolutely identical. I’m sure there are special terms in English for these “things”. But I don’t know them, sorry. I hope you understand what I mean.
Therefore, you can determine the side by picots. It’s very simple. Take a close look at how the two picots are located relative to the chain. The difference is very noticeable, isn’t it? On the left is the picot that is obtained on the front side. On the right is the picot, which is obtained on back side.
If you turn your work over and continue to do double stitches in the usual way, you will end up with a “picot mix.” In this case, it will be completely indifferent which side is which. This is probably not critical! But only as long as you weave with single-color threads.
Look what we get when working with threads of two colors. When two rows are joined on one side, small stitches of a different color are obtained. Imagine what your work will look like if small multi-colored stitches peek out from all sides. Again, this is not dogma, but creativity. And any of us can say: I am an artist, I see so! In any case, the choice is yours!
I’ll tell you how easy it is to switch to the front and back method. It’s sooooo simple. When you turn the work to the opposite side (we already know how to distinguish both sides!), you weave double stitches in the reverse order. That is, first you need to do the second half of the stitch, and then the first. As always, I made a short video demonstrating this technique. This video demonstrates the method for needle tatting. But for the shuttle the reception is absolutely identical. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGF8pzR3tJk&list=UULF3dn4_9pp7tIKA2k564wLBQ Please don’t forget to come back after watching and leave a comment!
Tips for beginner needle tatters. Part 1, or simple and clear rule for when and how to reverse the work.
Hello everyone! The most frequently asked questions beginners:
to do or not to make a knot after a ring or chain?
how can I know whether to reverse or not reverse the work?
how can I find out the front and back side of the work?
why do my chains get twisted?
And of course, there are many other points that I will try to talk about in my blog. To achieve this, I plan to write several posts and make additional videos specifically for needle tatters. So subscribe to my YouTube channel and my blog to stay updated. So today we will answer the first two questions.
To do or not to make a knot
Unlike the shuttle, tatting with a needle is not as tight. Therefore, after completing each ring or chain, the needle tatters make a knot that helps “keep the shape” of this element. In the post “Magic Simple Knot” I wrote about ball and shuttle threads (in this case it is more logical to call them ball and needle threads). The names may differ in different languages, but the meaning is the same. And in this post I call a simple knot a magic one because it helps us “solve a lot of problems”! https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/magic-simple-knot/
So, we have decided. The answer to the first question is yes, you need to make a knot!
Reverse or not reverse
Typically, in the instructions for the pattern, designers write, RW or DNRW. Although I only write where I need to turn the work around. It is logical that if nothing is written, then there is no need to do anything. Do you agree? But if you only have a graphical diagram, you will have to decide for yourself where and how to flip, rotate, or expand the work. An impossible task, isn’t it? But we will return to this topic, I promise!
So, you know, the ball thread should ALWAYS be located to the left of the work. But this is only if you are right-handed. For “lefties” it’s the other way around!
If you make one simple knot, you will swap the ball and working threads. And thus the ball of thread will move to the right of the work. Therefore, the work needs to be turned over and each thread will take its place. And if you make two knots, the threads will remain in the same position and there is no need to turn the work over.
So, the golden rule: one knot – turn, two knots – no turn! I find this very easy to remember.
And if you are interested in the topic “Tips for beginner needle tatters”, write me your questions in the comments. I will try to answer them in the following articles.
No shaggy tails, or carefully hide the ends of the threads at the end of the work.
Hello everyone! I recently learned that not all beginning taters hide the tails of the threads at the end of the work. They just weren’t taught! Ah, that’s a terrible omission. Yes, usually the instructions say: tie and cut. Where is the word “hide”? Gone, LOL! Therefore, today I invite you to go back to the beginning and talk in detail about this topic.
So, why do you need to hide the ends of the threads? Firstly, shaggy thread tails will look sloppy. And they will become shaggy very quickly, believe me! Secondly, by hiding the tails, we additionally secure the final knot. It is very important. After all, if the knot comes undone, we will get a disaster!
Try to hide your tails in different directions. For example, on different sides of the ring or in two different chains. This will help you avoid unnecessary thickening of the elements. It is also easier to pull one thread through the middle of double stitches rather than two.
I made a description of seven ways to hide the ends of threads. Some differ from each other only in the tool I use. But other options are possible, of course. Therefore, try, create and choose the method that is convenient for you. In addition to the instructions, I made an illustrative video. Hope this is helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8kVsN70EF4&list=UULF3dn4_9pp7tIKA2k564wLBQ
Method 1
You hide the ends of the threads with a sewing needle, sewing a seam over each double stitch. This method is the simplest, but not very reliable. It can be used if you do not need to wash the product. And, in addition, strong fixation will be required so that the tails do not “crawl out of the seam”. For example, for earrings or bracelets made of thin threads.
Method 2
Here we also use a sewing needle. But we don’t sew stitches, but hide the thread with a needle in the middle of the double stitches. It is enough to insert the needle into 3-4 double stitches. This method is fast. But if your knots are too tight, you will have to use small pliers to pull the needle out of the double stitches.
Method 3
Absolutely identical to the previous one. But we pull the thread with the needle into each double stitch separately (or even half a stitch). If the weaving is very dense, then this method is ideal, although not as fast as the previous one. By the way, don’t forget to protect your fingers with a thimble when handling the needle.
Method 4
For this method, I suggest using a thin wire bent in half. I call this wire the “magic tool”. Using wire, you hide one tail of the thread into the chain. And you “sew up” the second tail using a needle using method 2 or 3. And you can read about additional tools for tatting in my article here: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/additional-tools-for-tatting/
Method 5
You can do the same thing by using an additional piece of thread instead of wire. In the video you will see how you can quickly and easily hide additional thread inside double stitches using a shuttle.
Method 6
This method is convenient to use if the pattern ends in a ring. In this case, at the beginning of the pattern (if it starts with a chain), you can use a small piece of additional thread or a paper clip. This will make it easier to connect the last chain before starting work. In the first 4-5 double stitches of the ring, hide the first tail (if the tail is long enough, you can tie it to the shuttle, it will be more convenient). Weave wire into the last 4-5 double stitches (as in Method 4). Form a ring and secure the second tail with a knot. And pull this tail through with wire.
Method 7
You hide both tails in one chain (or ring) at the same time. I only recommend using this method if you have weak double stitches. Because it is very difficult to pull two tails through double stitches at once (after all, the tails will be folded in half). And besides, such a chain will look noticeably thicker than the other elements.
I hope my long article did not bore or frighten you. Comments, questions, advice are welcome! Careful tatting and no shaggy tails!
Magic simple knot, or how to make life easier for yourself.
Hello everyone! First, I want to address my subscribers – participants in the competition for the best name for a doily (posts dated September 11 and 15). The validity period of the discount coupon for the Galaxy Flower doily tatting pattern has been extended until October 30. I sent the coupon code to ALL members. Please check all your email folders.
Now let’s get back to the topic of today’s post. Have you noticed how simple actions sometimes help us make our lives easier? I won’t get too philosophical, LOL! I just suggest that you check whether the SIMPLE knot is truly magical. Yes, yes, I’m talking about the very knot with which we tie our shoelaces. You will be surprised, but it really works!
Shuttle and ball threads
I have already written in previous posts how tatting elements have different names in different languages. One such example is the name of shuttle and ball threads. You might be very surprised. But in my language there are NO such names. The shuttle thread is called the leading thread. Because she seems to direct all the nodes of the work, leading the pattern along with her. And the ball thread is called working thread. Apparently because she forms knots, that is, she works hard!
I do not at all pretend to be a “HISTORIAN OF TATTING”, but I have a theory. At the beginning of the emergence of tatting, the patterns were simple and were made with one shuttle, or a shuttle and a ball. And by the time tatting spread to Eastern Europe, the patterns became more complex. There was a need for two or even three shuttles. In order not to confuse tatters, Europe and America left the same terminology. But the Slavic countries introduced new names, which in my opinion are logical if we use two shuttles.
Just in case, I want to remind new taters, shuttle thread is always on the right (if you are right-handed, of course!).
And now we come to the most interesting part!
You can make many patterns with one shuttle and ball. The trick is this. For example, you need to make a pattern like in the picture. As you can see, this is a pattern for two shuttles. Because the Rings here are made with the second shuttle (this is the shuttle with ball thread).
This works if you are making a single color pattern. What if I want to use two colors? I’m sure you remember a simple rule: the color of ball thread determines the color of the Ring or Chain (Wow, I definitely need to write philosophical treatises!). In this case, I take two shuttles with two different colors of thread and make simple knots however I want, LOL! Yes, I received 12 heart options where the color was NOT REPEATED. But I have 12 more options in my head! I liked the result so much that I decided to use this technique to create bookmarks. Of course, you can take threads of any other colors and create as many of your own color options as you like! Experiment, creativity is welcome. The pattern is available in my store. https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/product/pattern-bookmarks-tenderness/
Thank you for reading to the end. I hope I didn’t bore you too much!
Once I caught a fish alive, or how to quickly and easily wind the threads in several layers.
All plans go to hell when the air raid signal goes off… It scares me terribly. Because the consequences of the bombing are always unpredictable and terrible. And every time I seem to crumble into small pieces. This is a very unpleasant feeling, believe me. Each time it becomes more and more difficult “to collect yourself as a whole”. But your kind words, your prayers and thoughts about me and my country help me. Today, the third time, an air alert has been declared throughout Ukraine. Everyone get to cover now! I managed to shoot material for the video in my studio. And I can mount the video and write an article anywhere (even sitting in the basement, which I don’t have, unfortunately…). Sorry for such a sad start. I thought for a long time if I could write about the war in my needlework blog. Tatting, sewing, embroidery, knitting, macrame, all my creativity is my life. But this terrible reality is now also my life, alas.
I caught a fish alive
So, I wanted to remind you of a nursery rhyme. Probably, in every language, children count one-two-three-four-five, read a poem or sing a song.
One, two, three, four, five, Once I caught a fish alive. Six, seven, eight, nine, ten, Then I let it go again.
Why did you let it go? Because he bit my finger so. Which finger did it bite? This little finger on my right.
Surely you will be surprised and ask me: why a nursery rhyme? We’ve come to wind the threads! The fact is that winding threads in 2, 3, 4, 5 and even 6 layers is as easy as singing a song.
So, all you need is a ball of thread that you need to rewind, and an empty spool from the sewing machine. I was lucky, on my Bernina the bobbin reel is enlarged. Therefore, more thread is wound on this bobbin. I’ll be honest with you, I don’t like working with multiple layers of thread. But sometimes I just don’t have threads of the right color with the right thickness. For example, for jewelry set Danuta, I wound metal embroidery threads in three layers. The pattern for this set is available in my store: https://fairylace.kozinenko.com/product/tatting-pattern-set-danuta/
So, step one:
Wind the threads from the ball onto the spool. I do this on a sewing machine.
Two layers
It’s elementary, Watson! Two threads in one.
Three layers
You only need a ball. Make a loop, forming three strands. Tie the end of the thread and loop to the shuttle. Gradually winding three threads on the hook, thread the ball of thread into the loop. Ah, I’m not sure I can explain clearly. Therefore, it is better to watch the video, please (link at the end of the article).
Four layers
In this case, you need to go back to winding in three layers and simply add thread from the spool. Thus, in one step you get 4 layers at once, hooray!
Five layers
You only need a ball threads. We do the same as winding in three layers. But now we need two loops of different lengths. Oh, I won’t even try to write how to do it. And again, I suggest watching the video.
Accordingly, for six layers, you need a winding option for five layers plus one thread from the spool. And this “song” can go on forever!
I am very grateful to you for your patience! Now finally a link to the video. Don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel. And also I will be very grateful for following my blog and comments. https://youtu.be/q53Ejc9gI60
In the last lesson, we disposed of the remnants of the thread. Did you succeed? And I promised to tell you in detail how to connect elements of different colors correctly. Do not throw slippers at me, because I will again talk about the front and back of tatting! Of course, I do not in any way insist on my opinion. Because every artist is entitled to their own point of view. After all, every tatter is an artist! Do you agree? And who can tell the artist exactly how CORRECT? It is possible that you will like the product, which has specially made thin “stitches” of a different color on the front side of the work.
Cro-tatting Lesson 6 Front side
Front or back side?
In my classes for schoolchildren, I show the difference between the wrong side and the wrong side at the very beginning of lessons. Believe me, students perceive this very easily. By the way, it is in cro-tatting that the difference between both sides of the work is very clearly visible. Especially if you use double crochet in the pattern. How unexpectedly, I had an idea for the topic of a new lesson! If you are interested in getting a pattern using double crochet in the pattern , write me in the comments please.
I will be grateful for the support of my blog and YouTube channel. Subscribe, comment, share on social networks, please! This will help make my information more interesting and useful.
